The bridge seems to have glued pretty well. So the strings are attached, and the random pieces of fancy wood turned into a nice playing instrument with amazing sustain. Here is a little
sound sample, not well played (or sung), but hopefully a bit informative. Hadn't I done this for Jyrki, it'd be a keeper for sure.
Here I found a handy string spacing calculator for the nut slots.
These are indispensable in giving the bone pieces the shine it deserves. I strongly suggest getting a bone nut, saddle and bridge pins for any acoustic guitar. The difference is so clearly audible, I'll never go back to any plastic anymore.. Nice and inexpensive bridge pins can be found
here.
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Simple livingroom setup. You can even hear the clock on the mp3 |
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The treble side string ramp needs to be deepened a bit. Now the high e-string is in contact with it. |
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I was bold and brave enough to sign the inside label |
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Here you can see the ramp underneath the fingerboard. Instead of gluing the fb straight to the top, I put a redwood wedge in between. This allowed me to get the saddle height I wanted, and took completely away all the issues with the fingerboard extension warping and causing buzzes in the high fret positions. This way the top can have its arch and be still playable. Recommended! |
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The old timey tuning machines (Golden Age tuners from stewmac) suite this kind of a slot head nicely |
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The armrest is in contact with the 7mm of the top edge only. This helps protect the top from sleeve buttons etc , and takes the players muting arm off the top. There's a clear pickguard at the treble side, made of double layered self-adhesive plastic film sold for protecting books. Good for protecting spruce tops also! |
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