...and here is the ebony blank to start the work with. Madinter sells these (plus the fingerboard blanks) at a very reasonable price. I start by belt sanding all the facets smooth. |
Looks almost real... With this template I trace the outline of the bridge on the sanded blank |
I do a rough cut using band saw. Then go down to the line with the belt and disc sanders. The pencil lines help me figure out how the work is proceeding. |
The shape about roughed out. |
radius of the top of the bridge is about 20 inches |
Trying on the starting-to-shine blank on the starting-to-shine top. I use these to bring ebony to it's shine. My last secret weapon is an ordinary A4 sheet of printing paper. Or a tearout of a newspaper. It brings the shine to its final level. Oops. Not secret anymore... |
Time to route the saddle slot. This handy little jig with cams keeps the bridge still while cutting |
And this handy little jig makes a safe and controlled ride for the router |
A clean cut at exactly 3mm. |
Trying in the saddle. Might need a tad taller one. But the fit is snug! |
making pilot holes/starters for the bridge pin holes. Strongly recommended! |
4mm wood bit is usually the right one. Remember to use a wooden backing piece to prevent tearing at the bottom. |
Here you should be able to count to six... |
Making the countersunk holes for the pin heads. The drill press really helps here to make the holes nice and even. |
About done! |
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