I'm selling my 2002 SCGC OM/PW guitar. It's a very nice excample of the company's "entry level" Pre war -series launched some 12 years ago.
Beautifully aged sitka spruce top with scalloped and tapered, forward-shifted bracing. Dark and straight grained indian rosewood back and sides. Grover sta-tite 18:1 open back tuners. Simple understated appointments and a deep, powerful, magical voice. The OM size is referred to as small bodied guitar, and it sure is smaller in dimensions than a dreadnought. But there's nothing small about the tone here. Maybe more balance when compared to bass heavier dreads. With original HSC and a reasonable price. Drop me a line here if interested!
Tässä blogissa selvitetään kuvin ja sanoin, millaista puuhaa on rakentaa akustista kitaraa kotosalla. In this blog I'm telling with words and images how it's like to build an acoustic guitar (or a few) at home.
tiistai 17. heinäkuuta 2012
maanantai 11. kesäkuuta 2012
Top business
Gluing the top to the sides is a pretty straightforward business. The kerfing and the sides are notched to accommodate the brace ends. Then it must be ensured everything is lining up. Centerline of the top to the centerline of the heel and end blocks. If the centerline is missed, then the soundhole, for example, will be off. And believe me, human eye is pretty picky when it comes to symmetry... Asymmetry is OK if intended, but it's kind of difficult to explain to your customer (or yourself), why a soundhole of an acoustic should be 10 mm off to the bass side. Trust me. Been there...
Depending on the radius of the top, the sides and blocks must be shaped a bit to make a perfect fit. I do this using my top radius board and a BIG sheet of sand paper. With the rim in the mold, I sand the sides until they fit. Then it takes just some Titebond & gentle clamping power to finish the job.
Depending on the radius of the top, the sides and blocks must be shaped a bit to make a perfect fit. I do this using my top radius board and a BIG sheet of sand paper. With the rim in the mold, I sand the sides until they fit. Then it takes just some Titebond & gentle clamping power to finish the job.
![]() |
| The whole area is penciled to see when it's completely sanded Here you see the end block is slanted - the gluing surface is the same in width as that of the kerfing's. |
![]() |
| Here you can see one of the notches that take the top braces |
![]() |
| The A-frame upper bout bracing fits in to the heel block |
Tunnisteet:
cocobolo sides,
Fitting top,
gluing top,
ryan bevel
Tilaa:
Blogitekstit (Atom)










